Canon Dial 35 for the Win

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Just some trees

As if to underscore how good the Canon Dial 35 is after my earlier post I thought I’d post some pictures I’ve just processed. The Dial that I used is a bit slow and has the meter switch wired the wrong way round. A lot can happen to a camera in sixty years. And it does still mostly work. Anyhoo, the meter under-reads, which meant that the shots were all a bit over exposed. So I compensated by developing the film for a bit less time (quite proud of that) and the shots speak for themselves.

Blackpool Booth

Blackpool tower and a spitfire

Humber Bridge Park

MPP Camera Resources

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Hmmm. Could use a bit of a dust..

If you are lucky enough to own a Micro Precision Products (MPP) Micro-Press camera I’ve made a couple of 3D printable resources you might find interesting. The first is a lensboard (the thing which holds the lens in front of the camera). The second is a spacer which makes it easy to use a LomoGraflok back with your MPP camera. You can find them here.

Rob and the Rabbit R1

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It is impossible to overstate how orange this thing is

I mentioned to number one daughter that I’d got a Rabbit R1. “But aren’t those supposed to be useless” she replied. Well yes. And no. She wasn’t surprised that I’d got one. All it took was one vaguely positive review a while back to get me to whip out my credit card. And I do have a record of buying doomed devices, Nabaztag Rabbit, Chumby, Berg Little Printer, Windows Phone. And I had just got paid. For the same outlay I could have bought a few meals out, a not very good golf club or three or four video games. But I got a gadget instead. Big surprise.

It arrived yesterday. Well packaged and presented. No power supply, just a snappy little box. And it works (as in it does the few things that it is supposed to do). You can ask it questions and it will give you useful replies most of the time. It now has the ability to control Apple Music, but having seen stories about how badly protected the internal software is, I’m not going near it with my Apple credentials any time soon. And anyway my phone has a better speaker. One thing I do really like is the “tell me what you can see” feature.

Mostly right

I pointed the Rabbit at Hull MakerSpace last night at the meetup (which was great fun by the way) and it came up with the above description, which I think is about right (although it is not really that messy). Holding a conversation is fun and context is maintained very well. I’ve not tried getting it to do something, but if they ever release a way of creating your own scripts and whatnot (and they are scripts - I don’t think the Large Action Model is really a thing just yet) then I’ll be tempted to have a go.

I’m not sure how much I’ll use my Rabbit, although it is nice to have something you can just ask a question any time. If I was using my phone or computer I’d have to stop what I was doing, find the appropriate application and enter the question. And then I’d forget what I asked and have to ask it again. With the Rabbit you get a RabbitHole web page that gives you a lovely time sequence of questions and answers which you can go back through.

I guess my biggest concern is whether the Rabbit will still be here in a year’s time. It was sold as a device that gives you free access to a high quality large language model and it does that in a responsive and useable way. But that model is not sustainable in the long run. All of the devices that I mentioned at the top (with the exception of Windows Phone) failed because they used backend servers that needed to be paid for.

I’d be happy to pay a subscription for my Rabbit (or better yet roll that subscription into what I’m already paying for ChatGPT). However, I don’t think enough of the other Rabbit users will be happy to do that. So unless someone with deep pockets and a long term eye for market share steps in I’m afraid that in a while my Rabbit will in a box in the loft alongside all the other next big things up there. But I’m enjoying it for now. It’s an interesting signpost on the road to where we are all headed.

150 RFID Cards...

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I seem to have bought 150 RFID cards. As you do. I’ve been playing with RFID tag stuff for over ten years. The cards I’ve bought aren’t particularly special, but I think they have some internal storage too, which makes them even more interesting. And I do have plans for them. I don’t just spend 25 quid on a whim you know….

First plan is to give one to everyone who comes to the Hull Computer Science 50th Anniversary Celebration in October. I’m going to scatter a few readers around the place and use them to manage the free drinks. We also might have a go at some kind of RFID based Ultimate Werewolf thing.

Second plan is to fit a bunch to the bottom of the HullPixelbot robot arena so that I can fit readers to the robots and they can navigate by reading cards at different positions.

Hmmm. Having thought about it, perhaps I should buy some more…

Double Perf for the win!

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Made in 1992. I’m sure it’s fine

A while back I got a movie camera. And now I’ve got some film for it. It’s 16mm double perforation (holes on both sides - very important) black and white film which originally came from Russia. I’m not that fussed whether it takes pictures or not (although I plan to try and find out). I really wanted it so that I could make sure that the camera mechanism works correctly before I spend some cash on proper film.

Pentax 17 vs Canon Dial 35 - Fight!

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It sure is a very handsome camera

Big news. Pentax have just launched their first film camera for a very long time. It’s called the Pentax 17 and it looks awesome. It takes 17mm (hence the name) high shots on 35mm film (that’s half-frame). You can get 72 shots from a single cassette of film. It has automatic exposure, a nifty wind-on lever and lots of shooting modes. The focus is manual (you choose from a number of different zones) but then it does something very clever to put the lens in a position that will maximise sharpness if that is what you want. It has a built-in flash and really looks the business. But I won’t be getting one I’m afraid.

The price is just too high, at nearly 500 pounds. Now, don’t get me wrong, for a brand new camera with this pedigree this is absolutely good value. It would have been very hard for Pentax to launch this thing at a lower price. They will have had to do lots of work on design and tooling just to get the thing out of the door. If you are the kind of person who wants to have a proper warranty and ongoing support for your film cameras this is for you. If it breaks you’ll be able to make it someone else’s problem.

However, I’m not quite like that. I prefer to get super-cheap old cameras and then see what I can do with them. For the price of a Pentax 17 you could get lots of Chaika, Olympus Pen, and Canon Dial 35 devices. And some of them might even work.

A dial and a dial

At the time of writing ebay are showing a few Canon Dial 35 devices for quite a bit less than a Pentax. I managed to pick up a fully working model and the pictures it takes are just lovely.

The university in fine fettle

The Dial 35 is manual focus and auto exposure - like the Pentax 17. It also has a very neat little clockwork winding motor. And it looks like something from both the past and the future. If you have the cash, absolutely get the Pentax. If you haven’t or want to have a more interesting journey, then I reckon you should lurk around eBay until a cheap Canon Dial 35 comes around.

Fixing Radioactive Pentax Lenses

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It got a bit dusty in the two days it was under the light

Back in the day, if you wanted to add a bit of zing to the rear element of your camera lenses, dropping some Thorium into the glass mix was the thing to do. Never mind that Thorium is radioactive, it changes the refractive index of the glass and improve sharpness. However, after a few years the Thorium in the glass undergoes radioactive decay, causing it to change colour and give pictures a distinct yellow tinge. I noticed this in some pictures I took a while back. And for the last few days I’ve been doing something about it.

For the last three days or so I’ve been shining an Ikea led lamp onto the lens. This lamp apparently gives out a fairly bit of ultraviolet light which triggers another stage in the radioactive decay process and causes the Thorium to turn transparent again. I think it has made a difference, but I’ll need to take some more colour pictures to find out properly.

Camera Comedy Capers

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I’ve started the images with the one that worked properly

It was a nice afternoon. So I suggested that we take a big 4x5 large format camera over to the Humber Bridge and take some pictures. And have an ice cream. So we did.

It didn’t go that smoothly. We had trouble fitting the film magazines onto the back of the camera because I’d forgotten how the fixings worked, and then I managed to take not just two, but three pictures on the same frame.

This would probably have worked if my shirt had kept out of the picture.

The capers didn’t end when we got home. I managed to load two frames into one side of the film holder in the developer tank, leading to some partial development and really interesting coloured marks on the negative.

I think the camera got shifted when we put the film in. We really should have both towers in the picture.

Oh well. At least the ice-cream was nice.

Enter the Bolex

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It does look good though

I’ve found a way of making photography even more expensive and difficult. I’ve bought another movie camera. This time it is a Bolex H16. My particular model was made around 1950. It’s clockwork and came with three lenses. Two of which work.

All I need to do is undoo that screw in the middle

The camera uses “double perforation” 16mm film which goes from the top spool to the bottom one. The perforations are there so that the camera mechanism can pull the film down one frame at a time in the film gate. A little pin or “claw” moves up and down grabbing each perforation, holding it still while the camera takes a picture on it and then moving on to the next frame. The original 16mm film had perforations on both sides, but later versions did away with the second perforation to make more room for the image. Single perforation “Super 8” cameras, made from the late 1950’s are more desirable because this film is much more common. Double perforation film seems to be only available in the ‘states.

You can convert a “double perforation” camera into a “single perforation” one by getting rid of the little spikes on one side of the wheels that pull the film into the camera. I might have a go at doing this, but first I want to run a film through the camera to prove that it works properly. I can wind it up and press the trigger and everything moves and makes a very satisfying “movie camera” sound, but I really need a bit more than that. So, now the hunt is on for some suitable film.

Minox Cameras and "The Exchange" in HackSpace Magazine

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I meant to mention this earlier, but I’ve been too busy having fun. The June issue of HackSpace magazine is out and contains a couple of my articles. The first is about Minox photography and how you can use 3D printing to bring an old camera back into use. The second is all about “The Exchange”, a Raspberry Pi powered AI backend for the red telephone.

...and so to Staithes

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Never been to Staithes before. Which is as good a reason as any to go. So we did. It’s lovely.

A view of the village

Adventures in wide angles

Incoming tide

The Cod and Lobster is a great place to eat

Lots of lovely details

Pity about the yellow lines…

If you get the chance, you should go. There’s a lovely little museum that gives you a great background to the area and lots of places for good food and drink.

Not Quite so Failed Filming

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I’ve inverted the image because it is a negative

I took another look at the failed film that I developed yesterday. It turns out that if you shine a really bright light through the film you can see a kind of image. What you can see above is a car on the bottom right of each frame parked in street that is going away from the camera, some trees along the top of the frame and some buildings down the left hand side. Admittedly it is hard to spot these details but I have managed to convince myself that the pictures are there and that the camera is working as it should. I’ve also convinced myself that developing your own cine film at home is a stupid idea.

So the next step is to save up some pennies (or sell a camera) to afford a proper cartridge of film and developing.

Analogue: A Field Guide

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The best design is timeless

This is a fantastic book. If you are a student of design, interested in technology, or just old. It takes you through different different devices, cameras, televisions, record players, cameras and whatnot, and explores how they look and why. The word analogue in the title is a tad misleading, in that many of the items present have some kind of computer in them, but the computer is usually there to manage analogue behaviour, rather than do everything.

The pictures are great, the explanations interesting and there are callouts to particular designers and companies along the way. There are quite a few things I used to own, and quite a few that I still do. The phrase “they don’t make ‘em like that any more” springs to mind a lot, but if folks read things like this and enjoy what is presented it would be nice to think that some modern devices would have this kind of flair in how they look and are used.

Strongly recommended.

Failed Filming

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I think the date on the film is 1980

The plan was simple. Take some footage with the Bolex 150 Super 8 camera and then develop it to see if we can see anything. Above you can see the Super 8 cartridge that came with the camera. It would normally be sent back to Kodak for processing (which was included in the price) but I don’t think they are still providing the service. So put the film in a dark bag, pulled out the length we had exposed and then popped it into a developing tank.

Getting into movies is turning out harder than I expected

Turns out that 40 year old colour film developed in black and white chemistry doesn’t do anything useful. I was hoping for at least some evidence of an image that I could use to check if the Bolex 150 was working correctly. I think we are going to have to bite the bullet and order a cassette of film.

"Fixing" a Bolex 150 Super 8 Camera with a flick of the wrist

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The camera I bought on Monday arrived today. It’s beautifully made of very solid metal and is around fifty years old. I optimistically popped some batteries in it and pressed the trigger to start making movies. Nothing happened. Not terribly surprising. We did some tests and managed to prove that the batteries were connected and supplying power. The drive motor in the camera (the thing that pushes the film through it) is mounted in the camera handle and quite easy to get to. So we took the handle off and had a look.

It turns out that all we had to do was slightly turn the motor shaft and the camera sprang to life. However it failed again later. It turns out that there is a “dead spot” on the motor shaft. If it stops in that position the motor gets stuck. This might be due to a faulty coil in the motor, or a bit of dirt on the commutator (the shiny ring around the motor shaft which transmits power into the motor). We’ve cleaned things up a bit and the camera mostly works a treat, but it still gets stuck every now and then, which is a bit sad. However, we’ve found a solution. All you have to do is hold the camera in your hand and give it a “flick” on the motor axis. This jogs the motor shaft slightly, getting it into a working position.

With that that proviso, we now have a working camera. Even the light meter is responding correctly. The camera came with some very old film which we are going to try putting through it.