3D Printed Lens Cases

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I fancied some 3D printed lens cases. So me and ChatGPT wrote a little Python program that runs inside FreeCAD to make them. I find ChatGPT a useful coding companion. It doesn’t usually get the code right, but it does provide enough insight into how the code is supposed to work to make it much easier to create something that does what you want.

As an additional flourish, we managed to put text on the outside of the case by rendering a TrueType font into a shape and then cutting it out of the case. You can see the results above. Next step is to get some foam and make some inserts to keep the lens nice and safe. I’m going to tidy up the code a bit and put it on GitHub.

Mamiya Press 23

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They say it is ugly, but I like the quirky charm it has. This one has the extra viewfinder on top for the wide angle lens.

If you were a photographer working for a Japanese newspaper in the 1960’s you’d probably spend a big chunk of your life carrying round a Mamiya Press camera. The camera is actually a whole ecosystem of film backs, lenses and other bits and bobs. The one above is a setup with a nice wide angle lens which will make a good job of the kind of scene setting pictures the editors of the day wanted.

The camera is big and heavy but the hand grip, which also incorporates a trigger shutter release, makes it quite easy to wield. It can take enormous 6x9 cm images on 120 roll film. You get loads of detail in every shot, which must have been greatly appreciated at the time.

The viewfinder is bright and clear and has a rangefinder spot in the middle which is coupled to the lens. This makes focusing very easy and accurate, as long as your lens and camera body have both been properly calibrated. The lenses are lovely and very sharp. The Mamiya 23 above has been in the wars. Some of the screws are missing and it could do with a good clean up. But it still turns out really nice pictures.

However, it is a nightmare to use. Taking a picture involves a sequence of steps which must be followed precisely if you want to get a result. And you only find out if you’ve missed a step when you develop the film and find you have empty frames, two frames on top of each other, blurry images and whatnot.

When you get everything right though the camera really sings. The good news is that if you fancy getting into large negative photography on the cheap these are a great way in. They are much less expensive than the Pentax 67 and no less capable. They are also much easier to repair. The shutter assembly is part of the lens, making it easy to swap out a broken lens for a working one. And lenses are not expensive. The rangefinder adjustment on the camera body is a bit tricky, but not impossible. And the film backs are all interchangeable too, so if that breaks you can get another. They were built for heavy use by working photographers and that means they are pretty tough. There are a number of different versions. I rather like the simple utilitarian appearance of the earlier models.

Worth a look if you’re prepared to put in the effort and put up with the odd wasted shot.

Pico Powered Camera Shutter Controller

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Click the image to view the video. It’s only 30 seconds…

Sometimes things work in spite of what you do, rather than because of it. With this in mind I present my PICO Powered Camera Shutter Controller. It works. It has quite a few batteries inside. It makes interesting noises when it has to work hard. I’ll show you the insides if you come to my talk at DDD North in a couple of weeks.

Levelled Up Servo

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I really, really want to be able to control the shutter on my Polaroid camera. So I’m in the process of building an actuator which will push the plunger on the cable release. Version 1 was a bust. Almost literally. The shutter button on the camera hardly moved while the servo made some very unhappy noises.

You can see version 2 above. Considerably more beefy. This servo actually contains metal gears. I’ve done a quick test and it seems to work, which is nice. Next thing is to build a cable release holder and attach it to the actuator.

If you want to see it in action, sign up for DD North and come along to my session.

Adventures with old digital camera backs

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Now that I’ve got a very old digital back for my very, very old camera I thought it was time to take some pictures with it. I’m a bit constrained, in that the camera has to be connected to the computer when I use it, but this is still much easier and cheaper than using film.

The digital back that I’m using has a sensor which is around the size of a 35mm frame. This means that I’m only capturing the centre of the picture, but I’m not unhappy with the results.

It’s been great fun walking around the house and taking pictures of stuff. It has allowed me to practice focusing and framing without spending a fortune on film. I’m really looking forward to taking some portraits with the setup. The absolute picture quality is pretty good. I know that modern cameras, and even phones, can produce images which seem sharper and brighter, but that’s not the point. I love the filmic quality of the results I get from this kit.

If you have an old computer (and you will need an old one - new ones are no good) that you can dedicate to the project and you happen to have an old film camera that will work with a digital back you should definitely have a go.

Updating a Polaroid Wink Light

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it is in good condition for its age

I’ve been messing around with Polaroid Land cameras for a while. Today I thought I’d do something with their flash lights. The Polaroid Wink light was created to add a bit of extra light to your pictures. If you buy a second hand Polaroid outfit you will frequently find one included in the package.

YOu can’t get 45 volt batteries any more. And this is a good thing.

Above you can see inside the light. The silver thing at the back is a capacitor which is charged up from the battery before the shot is taken. When the shutter is fired the charge in the capacitor is sent into the bulb producing a bright “wink” of light. The bulb in a wink light was made for use in cars which have a 12 volt power supply. The wink light sends 45 volts through the bulb making it get extra bright for a short time. If you want even more light you can plug a little holder into the side of a wink light which holds a “proper” flash bulb. These bulbs contain fine magnesium wire which burns with a really bright light - although you can only use each bulb once.

Anyhoo, I wanted to make the wink light actually do something. I had a number of ideas but in the end I decided to see if I could fit a standard G4 lighting led into the light. These use a 12 volt power supply. The most I could get from my batteries was 6 volts so I dug out a little voltage converter which steps this up to 12 volts.

The power switch is in the case at the bottom left hand side

Above you can see what I ended up with. There are two battery holders, each of which contains 2 AA batteries. They are connected via a switch to a “buck converter” which steps their 6 volts up to the 12 volts the bulb likes. I’m not planning on making the light switch on when the camera takes a picture. I’m a bit concerned that it might take too long for the circuit to fire up. Instead I’m going to leave the light on all the time while I take pictures. This also gives me a bit more light to focus with, which is nice.

Ready for action

Above you can see the light on the camera as it is meant to be used. The next step is to take some test pictures and get a feel for the exposure settings it needs. This was a fun way to spend a Sunday.

Fujica Half

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It is a stylish little camera

Half frame cameras are having a moment right now. The attraction of getting twice as many shots on your roll of 35mm film is hard to ignore. Pentax have recently launched a new half-frame camera and there are also cheaper (although rather expensive for what they are) half frame offerings out there too.

The Fujica Half dates from 1963. It is a quality lump of metal that looks the part and unlike the new cameras you can buy today it has shiny metal and proper heft. It is quite easy to use. You set the film speed on the back and it sorts out exposure (rather well in my experience) but you have to do the focusing yourself, adjusting the lens to the right distance. The film advance uses a neat little lever.

No batteries are required. The exposure meter uses a light powered selenium cell which lasts for ever, or until it breaks. If the camera has been kept in its case the cell will probably be OK, if not you can set everything manually which is a bit more of a faff, but not a stopper. The viewfinder is nice and bright, and it shows the shutter and aperture settings selected by the camera along with marks that help you frame close up subjects. You can use a flash with it, but you’ll have to plug it into the socket on the front and then set the aperture by hand. The frame counter is hidden on the bottom of the camera. It goes all the way up to 72 shots, which is what you would get from a 36 exposure film.

The camera takes pictures in portrait mode. If you have a film processed you’ll get two images per frame, which is rather nice. The lens is lovely and sharp and I really like the pictures it turns out.

These are two of the first pictures I took with the camera

The Exposure meter coped well with low light. I need to work on holding the camera straight,

I had to tip the camera on its side to take these pictures

The lens doesn’t flare too much

If you are thinking of getting into film photography you could do a lot worse than pick up one of these. And if you are already into photography it’s a nice thing to have around - and you can use the camera in full manual mode and set the shutter and aperture yourself if you want to get creative.

They seem to be nudging up in price at the moment (at least in terms of what folks are asking for them on ebay). If you see a tidy one with a working meter for less than the price of a video game I think it would be worth a punt.

Minolta Vectis-S1

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The Minolta Vectis S-1 camera is not particularly pretty. But it is pretty cheap. I picked up the example above for less than ten pounds. It is cheap for two reasons:

  1. It uses a type of film which is no longer made.

  2. It probably won’t work when you get it.

The camera uses Advanced Photo System film which was launched in the 1990’s and abandoned in 2011. But this is not a huge problem, you can still get film cassettes for it, albeit ones which will be at least 13 years old. The system uses a very complicated film loading mechanism containing many whirring and clicking parts. The first example of this camera I got made a few unhappy sounds too, followed by total lockup. But the sample above was made of sterner stuff and seems to be able to load film and take photos OK. I got hold of some film and took some shots.

I’ve not made the holders that go on top of the film yet.

The system was designed so that the film stayed in the cassette at all times. The processing and printing machinery was clever enough to get the film out of the cassette, print the shots you wanted and then wind it back in again. Of course I don’t have any of that machinery, so instead I designed a little holder which I can load up with film for the scanner. I then pulled the film out of the cassette and cut it into lengths for scanning.

The negatives are 16mm high with a “widescreen” aspect ratio

The results are pretty respectable for a twenty year old camera using fifteen year old film. Above is one of the more interesting ones. There is plenty of detail and the image is sharp enough . The shadows are very grainy though, probably because of the age of the film.

I’m not sure if I’d use this camera and film combination for any pictures that I really care about (although the auto-focus and exposure seem to work well). But it is fun to get out and play with.

Phase One digital back success: return to the Mac

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I think this has the appropriate level of recursion

I’m still not sure if anyone wants to hear about my travails getting digital back for my old camera. But things have gone so well today that I really want to tell everyone (or at least both of my readers) all about it.

Yesterday I discovered that it was all but impossible to get my recently acquired Phase One digital camera back (frog number two) working on a Windows machine. So today I went into the garage and dug out a venerable MacBook Pro that I’ve had for ages. I used it to write “Begin to Code C#” all those years ago. Just like me to write a book with that title on a machine with no # key on the keyboard. But I digress.

It turns out that things kept in the garage survive the experience. It booted up first time and I even remembered my password. It works a treat. In fact it works so well I got to wondering what new laptops do which made them worth the upgrade. Then I tried to pick it up, and I remembered.

I installed the appropriate version of Capture One, plugged the cable from the back into the firewire port on the side of the machine and lo and behold, it worked. It turns out that the FireWire port on a MacBook Pro (or at least this one) puts out enough current to power the back.

This was the first shot I took out of the window

I took a few pictures. It seems strange to be using a digital camera and still have to set the exposure. You configure the “film speed” of the back and then expose for that. But you have the advantage of seeing your shot straight after taking it. This gives you a proper “film” experience, just with really fast developing.

Capture One is an awesome program. I’m using version 6 from 2013. It runs fine on the MacBook. It is a professional tool, which means the learning curve is a bit steep, but it works a treat. I might try the newer versions (which might work on the Mac) but I’m not going to push my luck too far…

I now have a “portable” camera system, as long as I take along the Phase One back, MacBook and the cable that links them together. The resolution is not that great, but I don’t care. The pictures look really nice to me. And I’ve only had to kiss two frogs to get where I want to be.

Bye Bye Froggie

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It looks lovely, but it may never work again

There’s a little voice in my head telling me that nobody cares about my problems acquiring a digital back for my old film camera. I am choosing to ignore that voice.

The story so far:

Robert wants to be able to take digital pictures with his sixty year old film camera. So he has purchased a younger (by comparison - only twenty years old) digital back for the camera. Unfortunately, as can be the case with vintage electronics, the back has “forgotten” its software and needs to be returned to the mothership for reprogramming. In the last post on this matter Rob likened the process of getting a working device to “kissing frogs” and hoping that one of them will turn out to be a prince (or princess depending on taste). Now read on..

I’ve been told that it will cost 500 pounds (plus VAT and postage) to reprogram my broken digital back. I’m amazed that this is even possible, but it is more than I can afford to spend on this project and it might not fix the problem if something else is broken. So this back is now officially staying a frog. I’ve got another back on order which the seller is being very coy about actually sending to me. So I’m assuming that this one will definitely work….

In the meantime I’ve sent back the “frog” and been refunded. I’d like to give a special shout out to the folks at The Real Camera Company in Manchester who were great about the returns process, the Phase One technical support people and Andy at PearTree Photo who were all super helpful. The quest continues…

Sometimes it is actually the hardware which is broken

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I like a busy workbench

Done some more work on the new Cheesebox. It’s taking shape nicely. I’ve ended up making an enormous device with speakers, stereo amplifier and lots of leds. I’ve even got the OLED display working. I’d tested it with a spare display and come to the conclusion that my software was at fault. As if. It turns out that my spare display was broken too. I dug out another from a different batch and that works fine. Turns out that sometimes it isn’t actually my fault after all.

Cottingham Church looking fine

I’m trying a new, cheaper film developing service, filmprocessing.co.uk. I like them because they are happy to just develop a film and send back the negatives without scanning them. This makes the process half the previous price. I’m not unhappy with the results.

I’m getting better at holding the camera straight….

I’m starting to really prefer the look of film pictures.

Digital Sensor Frog Kissing

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Twenty years or so ago, when it was released, the lovely large digital sensor above would have cost around 24 thousand dollars. Now you can pick them up for much, much, less than this. I got one off ebay with the aim of converting one of my film cameras to digital. You have to plug the sensor into your computer using a FireWire cable and the result is not particularly portable, but you do get digital results (albeit low resolution by today’s standards). Back in the day magazine and product photographers used them in their studios to replace film. The aim was to get the fast turnaround of digital and the quality of their familiar large format cameras.

I decided it might be fun to have a go with one, and I’m now in the “kissing frogs” phase of the acquisition. Just like you don’t always get a prince (or princess) when you kiss a frog, you don’t always get what you want when you buy from ebay. Particularly with twenty year old digital film backs using an obsolete connection technology. The trick is to plan for this, treat the whole thing as a journey, and make sure that the seller accepts returns.

The film back above, with its lovely clean sensor and immaculate condition, doesn’t actually work when I plug it in. It’s behaving in a manner best described as “broken”. The documentation and the super-helpful folks at Phase One support lead me to suspect that the computer inside the film back has forgotten its software - a problem that can happen with old devices. The good news is that the supplier will accept returns, and it might even be possible to restore the firmware by sending the device back to Finland for a service (but I don’t know the price yet). I’ve learned a lot about the digital back connection process, FireWire and how the device is used, and I now know one way they can fail. I might need to obtain another frog to kiss, but in the meantime I’m having fun, which is the important thing in all this.

A little more agitation...

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It was a lovely clear day

Went up town today (lunch at Thieving Harry’s) and I took a few pictures. Then, when we got back I developed the roll. When you develop film it is a good idea to move the film around a bit (although you can also leave it standing for an hour or so). Up until recently I’ve been turning the tank upside down a couple of times for each minute. This works OK, but if the tank top is not entirely watertight you can end up with hands full of developer.

So lately I’ve tried using the little “spinny thing” that came with the tank and lets you rotate the spiral containing the film. This is easier to do and keeps your hands dry. It also doesn’t agitate the film as well. If you look at the picture above you will see streaky marks in the sky which I think are caused by insufficient agitation. It looks like I’m going to have to go back to “wet hands” process. But I think I’ll get some gloves too.

Free Cameras

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The chap in the Camera Shop in Beverley knows me quite well. I think I might be his pension plan. Anyhoo, he has now taken to keeping old cameras behind the counter that he thinks I might find interesting. And, even nicer, he hands them over for free. Today I was the happy recipient of three such cameras. Two of them were Kodak Brownies which are nice enough, but use 127 sized film which is no longer made. So they are useless for taking pictures.

The third camera was a different proposition though. It is a “Kodak Folding Hawkeye”. It has bellows in good condition, a clean lens, a shutter that clicks with encouraging noises and, best of all, it takes 120 roll film which is still sold today. At some point I’ll pop a film in it and see what it can do.

Film Developing Frenzy

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Spent a very happy time developing some films today. I learned some stuff:

  • Using a tank which can develop three reels at a time is kind of a great idea, but you need to mix up a lot of chemicals.

  • It’s much easier to have multiple developing tanks so that you can develop lots of films in sequence without having to wait for the tanks and the spirals to dry out.

I took the pictures at Bridlington and Comicon.